Fri, June 26, 2009
Paris – Call it an example of creative noblesse oblige, where the patrician proves he's a gentleman by his very concern and sympathy for those who got a tougher break, which was the case with Louis Vuitton's spring 2010 menswear collection, inspired by New York bike messengers on Thursday, June 25.
Abused by drivers, riding in the draining heat-waves of summer or mid-winter snow drifts and hustling all day long, there can be few more exhausting trades that being a Manhattan bike courier. So basing a fashion collection on the modern urban pony express is something of a stretch for Louis Vuitton.
The collection, whose program notes call the riders "Gentleman Butterflies," had plenty of ideas such as hipster, abstract expressionist splash painted nylon blazers, which in a zany use of technology turned out to be blown up images of butterfly wings.
Vuitton's menswear designer Paul Helbers riffed on lots of cycle references, whether contrasting orange or lemon shoe heels that recalled cyclists shoes, or hazard yellow luminous strips used as details on blousons.
Staged in Centre 104, the elegant new north Paris art foundation and former city morgue that's become a hot catwalk destination, the show featured a black tar runway that staff brushed carefully before the sounds of Lou Reed crooning "Take a Walk on the Wild Side" kicked off the show.
Ironically, the best looks had only a tenuous connection with delivery boys, like a brilliantly cut leather trench or a sleek calfskin biker jacket, done double face, a technique more common in women's haute couture.
Helbers, with Vuitton's creative director Marc Jacobs standing and applauding beside him, took his bow to throaty cheers and much clapping, few more enthusiastic than members of the Black Eyed Peas, who sat front row.
"Don't you like my look," said Fergie, the musical group's lead singer, as she pirouetted before paparazzi looking resplendent in all-black outfit from Vuitton's Pigalle prostitute collection, and complimenting it well with her newly dyed black tresses. And, adding to the frock-n-roll moment, Fergie's cohorts wore high tops designed by rapper Kanye West for Vuitton.
(Agencies)
