Straits relations

Beijing has an excellent array of Taiwanese restaurants. Check out the best cross-straits eateries and our list of classic Taiwanese dishes

Taiwan's great culinary tradition is like an onion, with Fujian cooking at its core. Other layers have been formed by food traditions that mirror the island’s history. First came Taiwan’s mountain people, known as shandi ren, who occupied the island in ancient times. Next came the Hakkas, who migrated here from the mainland in the 16th century. Then there was the Japanese occupation of 1895-1945. Finally, the arrival of Chiang Kai-shek’s Nationalist army in 1949 brought refugees from all over mainland China.

"Taiwanese cuisine is a fusion or assimilation of various cuisines from different parts of China," says Li Ming, manager of Fanqian Fanhou, a Taiwanese restaurant in Beijing’s imperial granary complex Nanxincang. "Chiang Kai-shek brought China’s best cooks with him to the island in 1949."

Taiwan’s culinary fare also reflects the impoverished period that followed the arrival of the Nationalist government, before the economic miracle of the 1960s and 70s. "Taiwanese were very poor in the early days," explains restaurateur-cum-interior designer Angela Chao. "We made braised dishes in aromatic soy broth (lu cai) that could be kept for a long time, and dishes that are xiafan, which can "send down" rice, such as pickled vegetables or turnip with scrambled eggs (caipu dan). In those days, people were thrifty and a little could go a long way." She cites kejia xiaochao – leftovers scraps that could be stir-fried together – as an example.

Taiwanese fare is characterised by lightness. "Taiwanese food is mild and not oily," says William Liu, CEO of Shin Yeh restaurant. "The freshness of the ingredients is absolutely important." Lin explains that being an island with an abundant supply of seafood, many Taiwanese dishes are made with harvests from the ocean, including oysters, eel, clams, crabs, shrimp, salt-water fish, squid and cuttlefish. Mullet, a marine fish that migrates to the sea southwest of Taiwan at the end of December, is prized for its rich, fat roe.

Zhao Yeping, owner of one of Beijing’s oldest Taiwanese restaurants, Feng Lin Xiaoguan, echoes the emphasis on top quality ingredients. His chef insists on using the Taiwanese soy sauce brand Jinlan. "It costs me more to use an imported Taiwanese soy sauce, but I want to maintain the quality of the food," says Zhao. "It’s light in colour and not too salty."

In an increasingly health-conscious world, Taiwanese restaurateurs are well known for modifying traditional dishes to create healthier versions, without loosing the essential Taiwanese flavour.

Time Out’s Top Taiwanese Picks

Alexander Creek Park

A small and intimate eatery with warm and friendly service, this simple restaurant serves up genuine Taiwanese dishes prepared without MSG. The highlight of the menu is the three-cup dish made with white mushrooms, shrimp, fish, bullfrog, beef and chicken. Mayou ji (45RMB), chicken stewed in black sesame oil and rice wine, is invigorating and said to be especially beneficial for women. Shacha tianbula (28RMB) is not to be missed – strips of fish cake stir-fried with tender and crisp celery. Also good is their homemade stinky bean curd (19RMB), while migao (18RMB), sticky rice with bits of dried shrimps and black mushroom steamed in a bamboo cup, is phenomenal. Zonghe geng (38RMB), a thick soup of squid, cuttlefish and pork strips, exemplifies true Taiwanese flavours. Wrap up your meal with either sweet red bean or peanut soup (well-worth the 12RMB), which comes with sticky rice balls.

203 Jixiang Li, Chaowai Dajie, Chaoyang district (6552 5296). Open 11.30am-10pm daily. Meal for two 100RMB. 鼎溪园 朝阳区 朝外大街吉祥里203号

An Lian

A family-oriented, pet friendly restaurant located on the south bank of an artificial lake just off the Luoma roundabout in Shunyi. An Lian offers home-style Taiwanese fare in addition to Southeast Asian and Western food. The Taiwanese dishes are prepared with mum’s recipes and recommended options include: ooa jian, pan-fried oyster (28RMB); wuwei huazhi, deep-fried cuttlefish balls (58RMB); fengli xiaqiu, shrimp balls in pineapple sauce (68RMB); jiuchengta chao qiezi, eggplant with basil (28RMB); rishi caiyu zhima lusun, stir-fried asparagus flavored with bonito (32RMB); and baodao youfan, Taiwan’s glutinous rice (32RMB). Don’t miss the traditional Taiwanese sweet bean shaved iced (26RMB). Dining on the wooden patio overlooking the lake and the front garden’s beautiful roses is especially pleasant and relaxing during the heat of summer.

Houshayu, Luogezhuang Village, south of Lake Luoma, Shunyi district (8049 4566). Open 10am-9.30pm daily. Meal for two 150RMB. 岸恋餐厅顺义后沙峪落格庄村罗马湖南岸

Bellagio

This trendy eatery is well on its way to becoming a Beijing institution – if it isn’t already. It serves Taiwanese specialties and Sichuan dishes prepared with a Taiwanese twist. Kong pao bean curd (29RMB), served with cashew nuts and large, fat dried chillies in a thick, sweet and tangy sauce, never disappoints. The three-cup chicken (46RMB) is cooked perfectly and exudes a rich aroma of basil. The stir-fried cabbage with bacon (29RMB) may be simple but it’s nearly impossible to resist. The impressive dessert menu offers a wide range of mountain-like shaved ices, with toppings ranging from red and green beans, to taro, to fruits. All kinds of smoothies are available, as well as hot and cold bubble teas. Open to the wee hours, this is an ideal place for Beijing’s club crowd, or a place to go for a midnight snack.

35 Xiaoyun Lu, Chaoyang district (8448 0520). Open 11am-4am daily; 6 Gongti Xilu, Chaoyang district (6551 3533); Shin Kong Place, 87 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang district (6530 5658). Open 10am-10pm daily. Meal for two 150RMB. 鹿港小镇 朝阳区 霄云路35号, 朝阳区 工体路6号, 新光天地, 朝阳区 建国路87号6层

Fanqian Fanhou

Located in a Ming Dynasty granary, Fanqian Fanhou features dishes named after well-known Taiwanese pop singers and prominent mainland figures. Chicken in black pepper (38RMB/half chicken) and stir-fried spicy bean sprouts (36RMB) are two favourites. There are also plenty of classic Taiwanese dishes to choose from, such as Taiwanese-style sausages (36RMB), stir-fried vermicelli (32RMB) and pipa doufu, deep-fried bean curd served with a pungent dipping sauce and pickled papaya (36RMB). Even the small dishes placed on the table upon your arrival are memorable – sweet pickled turnip and seaweed-coated peanuts. Although not really a Chinese dish, Dabancai (28RMB), a refreshing mixed salad in a nutty dressing, is by far the most popular and is a meal in itself. The third floor dining area almost reaches the roof beams and offers the restaurant’s quietest eating experience. Service is quick.

A13 Warehouse Complex, Dongcheng district (6409 6510). Open 10am-10pm daily. Meal for two 150RMB. 饭前饭后, 东城区东四十条22号南新仓国际大厦古仓群A13

Shin Yeh

With a respectable 30 years experience in Taiwan’s food business, Shin Yeh serves authentic Taiwanese fare. Start with wuwei ruanshi (68RMB), boiled squid accompanied with a five-flavoured dipping sauce, a dish that resembles Japanese sashimi, except cooked. Also strongly recommended is the delightfully light and crispy zonghe yansu ji (58RMB), a combination of crispy chicken, squid and green beans. Huangjin niaocao (48RMB), golden bird’s nest, is an Olympic-inspired dish of diced chicken stir-fried with bamboo shoots, black mushrooms, white mushrooms and peanuts served in an edible nest of noodles. Be sure to try the vegetarian baihe shijin gu (48RMB), an assortment of mushrooms paired with lily bulbs, carrot and snow peas. Shin Yeh’s décor is decidedly upmarket-minimalist and the service is excellent.

6 Gongti Xilu, Chaoyang district (6552 5066). Open 11am-10pm daily. Meal for two 150RMB. 欣叶 朝阳区 工体路6号

Two Shores One Home

This restaurant stands out amongst the predominately spicy eateries along red-lit Ghost Street, with a name suggesting unity across the Taiwan Strait. Flip past the Sichuan dishes and head straight to the "Taiwan flavour" page for highly recommended Taiwanese classic dishes such as guabao (10RMB), buns filled with pickled vegetable and fatty pork; wuxiang rou, or five-fragrant meat (38RMB); zha xiajuan, deep-fried shrimp rolls (28RMB); and sigua chao hali, a soupy clam dish cooked with loofah (26RMB). Xiandan chao kugua, bitter gourd stir-fried with salted duck egg yolk (20RMB), is absolutely fabulous – the rich and creamy egg yolk masks the slightly bitter taste of the gourd. The flavours blend together well and complement each other. Window seats allow you to watch ever-busy Ghost Street, while indoor seating provides a quieter atmosphere.

189 Dongzhimennei Dajie, Dongcheng district (6404 6086). Open 11am-11pm daily. Meal for two 100RMB. 两岸一家 东城区 东直门内189号 (簋街)

Classic Taiwanese dishes

Caipu dan Scrambled eggs mixed with diced salted turnip and pan-fried. A seemingly simple dish, but not easy to make. The secret lies in the turnip, which must be washed just enough to remove some salt but not so much as to completely loose its fragrance. At Shin Yeh, chefs are only allowed to prepare this dish after hundreds of practice runs.

Jian zhugan Pan-fried pork liver.

Lurou Braised pork in an aromatic soy sauce broth. Fat and lean streaky pork contributes a deep flavour. A variation is made with minced pork, usually served over rice.

Mayou ji Stewed chicken in black sesame oil and wine.

Ooa jian Pan-fried scrambled eggs garnished with fresh oysters and accompanied by tianbula sauce. A sweet and salty flavour combination that emphasizes the former.

Wuwei youyu Five-flavoured squid served with five-flavoured dipping sauce that is predominantly sweet, sour and salty. Although the squid is poached it looks raw.

Xiangkao wuyuzi Thinly sliced grilled mullet roe paired with sliced turnip and leek.

Yansu ji Salty-crispy chicken. The chicken is deep-fried in a tempura-like batter and sprinkled with salt-and-pepper.

Youyu geng Soup made from bamboo shoots, black mushrooms, squid and cuttlefish balls. This is one of the most popular Taiwanese snack foods. Although it can be found everywhere on the island, there are great variations from north to south.

Baobing A pyramid-like shaved ice covered in toppings and drizzled with condensed milk. Toppings include red beans, mung beans, pineapple, mango, taro and tapioca pearls.

Bingsha A smoothie made with peanuts or fresh fruit, including mango, strawberry and passion fruit.

Boba A drink made from tapioca balls, commonly known as bubble tea. Comes in a variety of flavours and can be consumed either cold or hot.

Douhua Beancurd custard made with soybean milk and solidified with gypsum. Its delicate and silky texture is laced with a gingery syrup and topped with boiled peanuts.

Hongdou tangyuan Sticky glutinous rice balls served in sweet red bean soup. The sugarless balls are soft, sticky and chewy, and complement the sweetened red bean soup.

Mochi Glutinous rice cake covered in peanut powder and stuffed with a variety of fillings, including red bean paste, sesame, taro, green tea or brown sugar. A contribution from Taiwan’s aborigines.

Xingren doufu An almond flavoured custard made of gelatin mixed with glutinous rice flour. It has a soft velvety texture and is served cold in a light syrup with slices of canned peaches.